Colours and Cuts - Mobile Hairdressing

How does my face shape determine my hairstyle?

 

Who would have thought that there are so many decisions to make when it comes to your hair!

You would have thought it would be simple right? Well the right cut will flatter and enhance your natural beauty whereas the wrong cut will emphasise the aspects you want to hide.

 

So here are a few tips to help you:

      

 

These are the typical shape faces that people tend to have. Do you know what one you have?

 

Well the key is to try and create the first shaped face, an Oval shape as every style will suit this shaped face. If however you have a long, round, square, heart or diamond shaped face, then you need a hair style that will create an oval shape. For example you may need layers, feathering, a full fringe or side fringe to create the oval appearance.

 

Have a look at the faces below for examples:

      

 

The original shaped faces are softened by the way the hair sits, cutting off edges and roundness to create a more oval shape. So if you are wanting to know how to have your hair cut follow some simple advice:

 

Long Faces

 

Consider shoulder length hair, somewhere between the chin and shoulders. Long straight hair is a No No!!! You need to create width at the sides, so waves/curls are a good way to create this. Maybe consider getting bangs, blunt or long bangs work well to cover a large forehead. Do not have a middle parting as this emphasises the length of the face, go for a side part. If you like shorter hair, avoid layers that add volume on top.

 

Round Faces

 

You need to create the illusion of length instead of roundness. Long hair is good because it lengthens the face. Add some choppy layers and side swept bangs, maybe even some waves and you have a complete transformation!

 

Square Faces

 

Go for an off centre parting with eye skimming bangs with some long layers, or even consider a voluminous bob, asymmetrical layers, graduated layers or an angled bob.

 

Heart Faces

 

You need to take the emphasis away from a wider fore head, so side swept bangs are good. The shortest piece of the bangs should hit your face at the arch of your brow and the longest should meet the corner of your eyes. Long waves are good for this face shape.

 

Diamond Faces

 

You need to balance out the narrow chin and the wide cheek bones. Therefore go for a deep side parting with lots of layers and bangs that fall around the centre of the fore head. Side long bangs or side swept bangs work well too. Avoid flat styles, centre partings and too much volume on the sides of your face.

 

Hopefully this has helped a little in deciding what shape face you have and what would be a good cut to go for. If you need any more guidance or have any questions, why not send me a message.

 

What cut do I go for?

 

Do you ever find yourself looking in a magazine for inspiration on how to have your hair? As a hairdresser I do the same! It is important to stay up to date with the way people and celebrities are having their hair cut in order to provide my clients with the looks they want. However when it comes to cutting there are 4 basic types of cuts. What makes the styles look amazing is the texturising and creative cutting that comes after the basic.

 

So the basic cuts are:

 

• One Length

 

Long blonde hair cut

 

This can either be pulled back over the shoulder and cut in order to create a dead straight finish or the stylist can work around the head creating a rounded cut from behind.

 

• Short Graduation

 

Short graduation blonde hair cut

 

I feel this style suits those people who want the best of both worlds, short and long hair. So typically the hair is shorter at the back and longer at the front. Depending on how steep the stylist holds the first angled section depends on how high it will sit at the back. I personally love this style as you can really get in there and create height and volume.

 

• Long Graduation

 

Long graduation hair cut

 

This style of cutting will offer long layers. It is great if you want to take the weight out of your hair. The layers can be long or short and choppy. I tend to cut the shortest layer so it sits under the jaw line and then texturise the sides to blend with fringes if applicable. This is also great for curly hair as it will create volume and different length curls.

 

• Uniform Cut

 

Uniform hair cut, mobile hairdressing in Kent and Medway

 

The shorter this style is taken the more it transforms. So wherever you pull a section of hair the length will be the same at a 90 degree angle. There are no shorter or longer layers, it is all the same. How it sits though can create beautiful choppy layers. This is great for sprucing up a one length bob for example.

Now you have understood the basic cuts, this is where you can ask the stylist to be creative in the finishing of the cut. For example you can cut into the layers to take out any blunt lines, taper to create soft edges, castle cut to create volume and the list goes on.

 

So the best thing you can do now is to find a picture you like and sit with your stylist at your consultation to tell them what you want. Sit back, relax and allow us to then work our magic.

 

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What will need testing?

 

There is more to colouring then you think so please read this carefully in order to make sure that the process is carried out correctly. To start with, the most important thing to do is have a skin test.

 

Skin Test

In all tints there is something called paradyes which can cause an allergic reaction. In severe cases it can cause an anaphylactic reaction which can lead to severe consequences. Most high street and professional tints will require a test to be carried out at least 48 hours before any colouring service. DO NOT IGNORE THIS! As a fully qualified hairdresser, Joanna will carry out a skin test behind your ear to ensure no reactions occur. If there is any redness, soreness, itching, blistering, swelling, difficulties breathing, then this will need to be washed off immediately and you will need to inform Joanna of this reaction and seek medical help if symptoms persist. This means that you are allergic to the tint that was applied and this will not be able to be applied to the scalp. An alternative method or product will need to be sourced in order to proceed with your colouring service.

 

Colour Test

In order to ensure that Joanna can achieve the colour you want a small cutting from your hair needs to be taken and the desired tint/bleach to be applied. This will enable Joanna to determine whether the desired colour can be achievable. It also enables you to see the outcome before it is applied to your hair. This is a fantastic way to ensure you are 100% happy with the colour. Otherwise it could be costly to correct if you are not happy. Do not panic, you will not even see where a sample of your hair has been taken, it is sectioned and cut in a way to blend.

 

Elasticity Test

There are many things that can affect the elasticity of your hair. Ideally an individual strand of hair needs to be able to stretch to one and a half times its length in order to be deemed as strong enough to hold the colour/bleach. Many a time Joanna has tested a client’s hair this way and established that there is minimal elastic in the hair which could potentially cause the hair to snap and break during a colouring service. Believe me, you do not want this to happen, so it is vital that this test is carried out. If your hair is considered to be too weak to have bleach or tint applied to it, then a course of intensive conditioning treatment needs to be carried out in order to repair the hair. Joanna advises a minimum of 2 weeks of daily oiling and every other day of conditioning treatments. If possible at least one day where an oil/penetrating conditioning treatment can be left on for the course of the day. If this is carried out for 2 weeks solid, then there will be noticeable improvements to the strength of your hair. It is better to endure 2 weeks of doing this then months of walking around will broken and damaged hair!

 

Porosity Test

In order for colour to hold in your hair, it is important to ensure the hair is not too porous, otherwise the colour will fade too quickly. So a test will be carried out to see if the cuticles on the hair are damaged. If the cuticles are damaged then they will not lay flat and can cause the colour to leak out. A simple way to determine this is to take a single strand of hair and between two fingers run your fingers along the hair the wrong way. If it feels smooth then the cuticles are healthy. If they are bumpy then the cuticles are raised and damaged. For colouring, a tint with larger molecules needs to be used to allow the colour to lock in.

 

Strand Test

During the colouring process, it is important to look at the hair to ensure the desired colour is being achieved. Scrap a little bit of colour off the hair to see how the colour is taking.  If it is needing longer time, then the tint can be smoothed over where you have just scraped a little off to return to the colouring process. If the colour has been achieved then it can be washed off.

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Why You Shouldn’t Colour Yourself

 

If the electrics went wrong in your house, would you fix them? Home colouring gone wrong

No? Why’s that? Is it because you are not qualified?

I know I wouldn’t touch them, I would rather call in a fully qualified Electrician to fix the problem. You hair should be the same. If you don’t know what you are doing then why touch your hair?

 

I trained for 2 years to ensure I knew what I was doing. Many people colour their own hair and 9/10 times it turns out fine, however there is always the one time it goes wrong… then what? It becomes expensive to correct. Not all home colouring kits tellHome colouring fixed by hairdresser you what tones are      in the tint, so how do you know it is not going to react with your existing  colour?

 

When you colour hair, it is important to know:

• What colour are you wanting to achieve

• Is it dark to light or light to dark

• Is the desired colour more than 3 shades darker to the existing colour

• What your natural hair colour is (if there are roots)

• What tones are in your hair

• Is there any previous colour in your hair

• Where do different colours meet

• What tones need neutralising

 

pre-piggingSo you can see it is not just buy a box colour and apply. The picture on the box does not take any of the above into consideration. This is what forms part of a consultation by a fully qualified hairdresser. You can find that you end up with bright roots and darker mid length and ends. The picture on the box doesn’t let you know if the hair has been bleached to a certain level first before applying the tint, this is what can make a red or purple more vibrant for example.

 

If it doesn’t turn out how you want, then what?

 

Then I step in and help. I need to know what you applied to your hair as I will need to test it to see if the product I use will react to it. So I will need a consultation to look at where we are and where we need to be. This will help me plan my Correction Journey. Depending on what has happened, you hair may need some form of neutralising or even bleaching to remove tones. It may be that your hair is not strong enough and will need some intensive treatment before correcting. This is why it is important not to correct it yourself with stripping kits as you can do more harm than good and you may end up having to walk around with horrendous hair until it is strong enough to work on. Duel hair colour - mobile colourist in Kent

 

It may be that unwanted tones will need neutralising. What you need to understand is that this will all take time. You may find that we can correct in one session, however there may also be the possibility that it may need to be done in stages. It can also be costly too. To go to a salon will result in high costs to cover overheads. With me however I have no overheads apart from travelling costs and products, so my correcting prices are much lower.

It is better to seek professional advice first before applying colours to prevent any unwanted outcomes. This will ensure your costs are kept to a minimum and the time it all takes will be dramatically less. It is better to pay someone who is fully qualified to achieve the colour you want then to pay them double if not more to correct your mistakes.

 

                                                                   Ombre example; Mobile hair dresser in Kent and Medway

Just remember if you strip your hair yourself I guarantee you will end up ginger!

 

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Before

After

DURATION: 5 HOURS

Pre-Pigging

Brown Underneath

Ombre

How long will it take?

 

In this day and age it is good to plan ahead, therefore it is a good thing to know how long you will be needing to sit still for. Whether it is how to occupy the kids, working around feeding times, or work commitments, take a look at the estimated timings in order to know when you should book your appointment:

 

• Shampoo and Condition                                                     10-15 minutes

• Blowdry                                                                                35-45 minutes

• Set and Finish                                                                      35-45 minutes

• Cutting                                                                                45 minutes

• Full head colour                                                                   30-40 minutes

• Full head developing time                                                   30-40 minutes

• Regrowth application                                                          25 minutes

• Regrowth developing time                                                   30-40 minutes

• Full head foils (Depending on technique)                            1.5- 3 hours

• Half a head foils (Depending on technique)                        1.5 – 2 hours

• T – Section                                                                           30-40 minutes

• Parting Foils                                                                         15-20 minutes

• Conditioning treatment application                                     25 minutes

• Conditioning treatment development time  20 minutes under heat

 

So typical examples are:

 

A cut and blowdry

Consists of: Shampoo and condition                                      10-15 minutes

                   Cutting                                                                45 minutes

                   Blow dry                                                              35-45 minutes

 

A total of 1.5 hours – 1.75 hours

 

A cut and regrowth

Consists of: Regrowth application                                          25 minutes

                   Regrowth Development                                      30-40 minutes

                   Shampoo and condition                                     10-15 minutes

                   Cutting                                                                45 minutes

                   Blow dry                                                              35-45 minutes

 

A total of 2.25 minutes – 2.50 minutes

 

**Bear in mind that there may be discussions prior to any service to form part of a consultation, hair texture, density, and face shapes etc will all need to be factored into the decision of what to have. Also if any test cuttings have been taken for colouring these may be examined and discussed. It may be worth adding on an additional 15 minutes for a consultation. Please bear in mind this consultation is vital in order to ensure you get the look you desire**

 

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Prices

 

Cuts

 

Conditioning Treatment                                                         £15.00

Luxurious hot conditioner which penetrates the hair in order to repair from the inside out. Wrapped and further heated in order for the hair to feel silky and nourished.

 

Cut and Blowdry                                                                    £20.00

Whether it is a trim or a complete restyle, there are no hidden extras. Using Kamisori Scissors and Layering Scissors to create a unique a tailor made style to suit you. Applicable to 16 years +

 

Gents Cut                                                                               £10.00

Clippers over comb or scissor over comb, it does not matter as the price is the same. Barbering techniques used

 

Children’s Cuts

 

Under 12’s girls and boys                                                       £10

12-16 years girls and boys                                                      £15

 

**With any given service, a complimentary free fringe trim is always available!**

 

Colouring Services

 

Full Head Colour                                                                   £35

Do you want a brand new colour or does your existing colour need refreshing? Either way feel refreshed with a variety of Wella Colours.

 

Regrowth                                                                               £25

When your roots start to come through you will need them topped up to keep your look at its best.

 

Glossing service                                                                      £25

Foils:           Full Head                                                            £50

                   Half Head                                                          £40

                   T-Section                                                            £35

                   Parting                                                                £25

 

**Foils may use tint, bleach, a repeating pattern of both or multiple tints to create amazing affects, please note this service may carry an additional £5.00 per tint requested**

 

Cap High/Lowlights                                                              £25.00

For those of you whose hair is too short for foils, but you want some high/low light affect, then this service can provide you with that look.

 

**Please Note: Any colouring service will require at least a skin test to be carried out 48 hours prior to your chosen service. The only time this is not required is if foils are being used or bleach**

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Visit my Gallery or Instagram Page to see examples of my recent styles, cuts and colours.

Send me an email or visit my 'book me' page to contact me or find out more information.

Colours and Cuts - Mobile Hairdressing
Hair byJosephines
Hair byJosephines

Duel hair colour - mobile colourist in Kent

Hair by Josephines
Colours and Cuts - Mobile Hairdressing

Duel hair colour - mobile colourist in Kent